Keeladi Excavation

Last summer, when in Madurai, we heard about the excavation in Keeladi which was causing ripples to be a Sangam age city site, excavated by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Just when we were pondering whether it will be possible to see the excavation site, we heard that the DHAN foundation in Madurai, has trips arranged for students and general public interested to learn more about the finding, while the excavation was still underway. The trip was fully guided and informational. The lead archaeologist at that time, professors and experts were also present at the site, to answer questions and provide information.

Keeladi is 12 kms from Madurai in Sivagangai district, south of Vaigai river. The archeologist heading the dig, said that, since it is very hard to find sites to excavate within Madurai, the ASI has been looking on either banks of Vaigai river, through its course, in hopes of finding clues about cities that thrived near Madurai during the Sangam age. Of many sites that they had assessed and dug they have been very lucky in finding this flourishing city that they currently guess through comparative testing that it could be around 3rd century BC, which puts it on Sangam age Pandyan rule timeline. If the carbon dating testing confirms this, it is a pretty exciting find for history enthusiasts and common folk alike.

I really appreciate the ardor shown by K.P.Bharathi, adviser tourism development at Dhan Foundation, Madurai who arranged this whole trip and seems to be doing much more for local tourism and protection of historical sites, through the foundation.

Details of the dig and the current developments timeline of the excavation has been reported and documented in the newspaper, 'The Hindu' here.

Keeladi Excavation Camp

Archaeologists and students camped there during the dig

The site is in a privately owned coconut grove

K.P.Bharathi, advisor, tourism development, Dhan Foundation, Madurai - talking about the agenda for the day

Ornate Potware and bone writing tool

Decorated shell bracelet, Chess pieces, Ivory dice

They have found more than three thousand artifacts made of stone, terracotta, iron, ivory and bone. Numerous jewelry beads made of terracotta, agate, coral, marble, glass and gold have been found, as well as, decorative bangles and terracotta and ivory earrings.

Writing tools, weapons and game pieces have been found. Pandyan age coins and Roman coins, slabs have been found proving trade relations between them. Sophisticated, ornate pots have been found. Mud pots with Tamil Brahmi inscriptions of names of owners have been found. Tamil, Prakrit, Sanskrit names among them, indicate contacts with other people.

The brick buildings are the highlights of this find, the experts say. There are square and rectangular structures (tubs) made with with brick floors. There are long walls made of bricks also, along these tubs with path ways to walk on them. They have found holes next to these which may have been used to erect poles to build wooden roof structures and they have found brick tiles used to build roofs. These brick roof tiles have holes for iron nails used to hammer them in place. They have also found water canals made with bricks and ring wells near them.

உரை கிணறு (Ring well)

12 layered Ring Well

Collected pieces of pots, roof tiles and other items are sorted

Brick Tubs

Water canals

Brick pipelines

Furnace and work area

Furnace

Large pot

The dig site

The entire expedition ended with refreshing 'Kambu Koozh' (Pearl millet porridge) served by the local women's club. Yum!

For me, it really was an amazing experience to walk through the ruins of a possible Sangam age city, in its original location, so close to Madurai. It would have been great if they were able to keep the excavated site preserved in its original location. But since it is in a private land, they had to close it and all the artifacts have been moved for further research and preservation in a museum.

In the trail of Kaveri

Rivers are birthplaces of human settlements and civilizations. They make me wonder about history, culture and the lifestyle built around them through the passage of time and change. 

Last summer, I set out to see the river Kaveri, on whose banks the Chola capital (Uraiyur) once thrived. I followed the river from Trichy to Kallanai and then to Thiruvaiyaru. 

The river splits into Kollidam and Kaveri near Trichy at Mukkombu, with the name Kaveri retained by the south branch. The in-between land mass forms the island Srirangam. Floods constantly caused Kaveri to break its northern bank and spill over to Kollidam. Kallanai was built to control the water flow into Kauveri so as to help irrigation and agriculture and use Kollidam to direct the excess flood waters. 

The initial dam, Kallanai, was built by the Chola King Karikalan in 2nd century AD using huge boulders sunk and stacked in the river bed. The dam was later fortified by the British in the 19th century and called Grand Anicut. The split river arrives at Kallanai and then further splits as Kollidam, Kaveri, Vennaru and Pudhuaru. Of which Kaveri, Vennaru and Pudhuaru are used for irrigation. Kollidam is used to divert excess water during floods. Kaveri continues its journey from there, to drain in the Bay of Bengal at Poompuhar.

Pictures of the river from the drive -

View of river Kaveri from top of Rock Fork, Trichy

Following the river - Driving towards Kallanai (Grand Anicut)

Kaveri at Kallanai

Kallanai (Grand Anicut)

Kaveri River

     

Kollidam River

Construction of Kallanai during Karikalan, the Chola king's reign in 2nd century AD.
There are paintings about the Chola King and the history of Kallanai in the 'Karikala Cholan Manimandapam' located at Kallanai

Following the river - Driving to Thiruvaiyaru

Kaveri at Thiruvaiyaru

Rocks, caves and temples

I have come to have special love for the rock hillocks that surround Madurai. I like them for their majestic presence and their rustic beauty. They are also standing testimony for the history of the city, with their Jain rock reliefs and Tamil Brahmi inscriptions dating to early Pandyan reign.

Samanar Hill:

I have written about my visit to 'Samanar malai' during my visit to Madurai earlier in 2011. This hill is located to the west of Madurai near Kilakuyilkudi.

Thiruparankundram Hill:

During this past summer 2016 trip to Madurai, I visited 'Rock Cut Cave Temple' on the south side of the Thiruparankundram hill. This hill is located to the south west of the city.

Driving around the east side of the hillock

Thiruparankundram - Rock Cut Cave Temple

The place almost has an eerie feel to it with huge trees and and their roots hanging mysteriously. Feels like a place where you could film an episode of 'Marma Desam' (the famous mystery Tamil television series). It is ominous and it is fascinating.

Apparently, you could also spot peacocks around this area. We spotted a couple of them.

Thiruparankundram - Rock Cut Cave Temple

Thiruparankundram - Rock Cut Cave Temple

View of Thiruparankundram hill from the south side

Yanaimalai or Elephant Hill:

Yanaimalai is located to the north east of the city. The south west facing end of this hill looks like the face of an elephant in repose. It is a long and imposing granite hill.

Driving towards Yanaimalai

Yanaimalai

There is a Vishnu temple on the east facing facade of the rock and there is another temple located close by on the extended rocky surface across from the hill.

'Yoga Narasimha Perumal' Temple

View looking towards 'Bala Dhandayuthapani' Temple

Driving by 'Yanaimalai'

I am glad that the locals and activists stopped a proposal to build a sculpture park at Yanaimalai that would have wrecked the integrity of the hill.

These are beautiful natural structures that define the city and its history. I hope they are preserved in their natural state.

Book - Gods, Kings and Slaves: Siege of Madurai by R. Venkatesh

This book is a historical fiction set in 14th century India. The story travels through the lives of Veera Pandyan in the south and of Chand Ram, a boy in northern province of Gujarat under Rai Karan's rule, who ends up an eunuch slave and rises as Malik Kafur, general under Alauddin Khilji, in the north.

It was an interesting read, the narration is short without elaborate descriptions. The story moves quickly through the years spanning the entire life time of Veera Pandyan and Malik Kafur. The author leading the story from the point of view of these two characters, given his account on how their love, tragedy, ambitions and failures led to shape history, highlighting historical events and sprinkling them with myths. As someone who enjoys this genre, I liked the book and it being South Indian history, was added bonus.

The book gives accounts of Alauddin Khilji and Malik Kafur's campaigns in the north and south. It also touches on their crushing the Mangolian invasions in the north. The following are some of their campaigns that are mentioned in the book which paved way for Malik Kafur to reach Madurai.

• The conquering and plundering of Gujarat in 1299 by Alauddin's generals Ulugh Khan and Nusrat Khan. (Rai Karan escapes and his wife, Kamala Devi gets abducted)
• The successful expedition to Deogiri (The Yadavas) in 1305. 
• The siege of Warangal (The Kakatiyas) in 1311, where Pratap Rudra ultimately surrenders and gives up immense wealth including the famed Koh-i-noor diamond.
• The fall of Dwarasamudra. The Hoysala King, Veera Ballala, gives up wealth and becomes a vassal.

In the south, after the fall of Chola empire, the Pandyans rule the Tamil country with Madurai as the seat of their power. The Cholas are reduced to vassals, the Hoysalas and Kakatiyas are kept at bay and Cheras are allies. There has been no war for years, having no major enemies, the war tarnished Pandyan empire under Kulasekhara Pandyan enjoys years of peace. Only trying to show their power, by invading parts of Lanka. Civil war brews as Veera Pandyan (the illegitimate older son of Kulasekhara Pandyan) and Sundara Pandyan (the legitimate younger son of Kulasekhara Pandyan) yearn for the throne. The civil war weakens the already complacent Pandyans further and makes way for Malik Kafur to weave through the Pandyan Kingdom using Dwarasamudra as the launch pad. His army traverses through Chidambaram, Srirangam and finally to Madurai plundering the temples on the way.

The book wraps up hurriedly in the end, with more historic accounts on events that followed after the first wave of invasion of Madurai by Malik Kafur in 1311. The Pandyan rule is reduced to shambles by two more waves of assault and leaves Madurai under Delhi Sultanate rule and later under independent Madurai Sultanate rule. In 1372, the Vijayanagar Kingdom led by the couple Kumara Kambana and Gangadevi, sweep the south under their control, which then lasts for three centuries.

I am glad that I read this book before I started reading 'காவல் கோட்டம்' (Kaval Kottam), the Tamil book that won the 'Sahitya Akademi' award in 2011, which picks up from the arrival of Vijayanagar Kingdom, and traverses the history of Madurai, up till the British rule. I have just started reading that book. It is dense and not a light read like this one and understanding this previous history has been enormously helpful.

#ChennaiRains #ChennaiFloods

Sometimes life drags you in a different path that the
past flashes like a distant memory.
Makes me wonder which is real - the past or the present.
Responsibilities weigh me down.
A new life filled with wonder.
As I try to find myself anew,
staggering between the worlds,
my adulthood continues leaving my youth behind.

A call for help from the past life
stumps me helpless.
Memories rush back,
of cherished days, moments, places and people
of the city that is so close to heart,
making me wish I could relive some.
I scramble from afar,
thankful and in awe of the helping hands.


- My thoughts, as the city where I had spent the best years of my childhood and youth in, reels in agony because of heavy rains and floods. 

Book - Midnight's Children by Salman Rushdie

'Midnight's Children', written by Salman Rushdie is a historical fiction set in India and Pakistan, imbibed with 'magical realism'.

Saleem Sinai born at the stroke of midnight on August 14th, 1947 when India gained independence recites the story of his family starting with the story of his grandfather, while in parallel, history shapes India and Pakistan. The story travels through generations - Saleem's grandparents, his parents and then his own. As Saleem grows up he finds out that he has special telepathic powers and connects with the children born during the first hour of independence - 'midnight's children', each with special powers of their own. He also finds out about the mix up at the hospital when he was born. The child he was switched with, grows up poor, as Shiva, who is also one of the midnight's children. The premise of the plot is intriguing. The author draws a lot of parallels between what happens to the characters to what happens in the countries.

I thought I would have loved to read this book without the 'magical realism' part especially since it is historical fiction. The mysticism part, I found to be unnecessary and many escaped my mind or left me confounded. I couldn't appreciate the point of the midnight's children and their special powers. The idea, though interesting, is not brought together in cohesion. I would have liked it to be more straight forward.

The author's writing is brilliant in many ways (humorous, satirical, amusing and immensely creative) but also drawn-out and tedious in many instances. I did feel the need to ditch the book during those tedious narrations. But in the end, I am glad that I stuck with it and finished it. I liked how the story travels through history. The book draws the reader to envision the complex nature of the birth of these two nations (with an equally complex narrative) and the struggles in the early years of formalizing themselves.

Dropping of the atom bomb, end of World War II, Jallianwala Bagh, India's independence from the British, partition of Bombay into Gujarat and Maharashtra, the Indo-Chinese war of 1962, India Pakistan war over Kashmir in 1965, Indo Pakistan war 1971 which led to the birth of Bangladesh as a separate country, Indira Gandhi's emergency 1975-77 are some of the historic events through which the story travels.

I found the early history of Bombay and it's partition after independence interesting. I haven't read war stories set in India and I was unaware of the specifics of the birth of Bangladesh as a separate nation. The chapter 'In the Sunderbans' where Saleem is caught in the Sunderban forests bordering India and Bangladesh during the 1971 war after losing his family, especially was poignant.

Saleem's grandmother, Naseem Ghani's (who is often referred to as 'Reverand Mother') idiosyncracy and her catch phrase 'whatsitsname' I thought was amusing.

The book has left me wanting to hear more stories of the people during the partition how their lives were touched by that very significant part of the country's history and the wars that followed.

Children's book from Karadi Tales

This is another book from India that we enjoy at our home. This one is published by Karadi Tales.

The Monkey King & The Blue Jackal - Folktales in Folk Art

The folk art illustrations in this book are brilliant. The book actually has a small description of the types of artworks used. The first story 'The Monkey King' has a combination of folk arts called Cheriyal, Mithila and the other story 'The Blue Jackal' has Warli painting inspired artwork.

There is also a brief description in the book about Jataka and Panchatantra from where the stories hail from.

I have fallen in love with the illustrations in this book, especially the Warli artwork in the Blue Jackal story. Its stupendous.

Children's books we love from Tulika Publishers

Here are some books that we have enjoyed reading at our household, from Tulika Publishers (their Wikipedia page has their official website) in India.

'Flower' - by Sandhya Rao and pictures by Ashok Rajagopalan, featuring 'Thumb Thumb Thambi', the thumb print boy, is a dear one. My son got this as a gift when were in India in 2009. We have since then sampled few of the books published by them and these are the favorites.

'My mother's sari' also by Sandhya Rao is an ode to the childhood memories of saris.

'Junior Kumbhakarna' by Arundhati Venkatesh, is fun. The boy Kukku in the book goes to bed listening to Kumbhakarna story from his appa and wakes up asking - 'where are the laddus?'.

Mala's silver Anklets by Annie Besant and Gajapati Kulapati Kalabalooosh! by Ashok Rajagopalan are delightful as well.

The books have a taste of India that we enjoy.

Road Trip - The red hot sand dunes

An engagement got us on the road for a one day road trip from Madurai through தூத்துக்குடி (Thoothukudi) and திருச்செந்தூர் (Thiruchendur), to the red sand dunes (I found out it is called 'Theri' soil) of Thoothukudi district.

I gaped at the salt fields of Thoothukudi and I reminisced, on seeing the தாமிரபரணி (Thamirabarani) river. I have lived in திருநெல்வேலி (Thirunelveli) for couple of years and the river brings back fond memories.

We passed through many banana and coconut plantations and finally arrived at the hot sandy red dunes. There are villages and village deity temples around these dunes. There are palm and cashew trees that grow wildly on these lands.

The salty winds, the river, the greenery, the feet burning red sand - that was quite a palette of characters for one day!

Some pictures - 

(தாமிரபரணி) Thamirabarani River

(தாமிரபரணி) Thamirabarani River

Palm Trees

Red Sands ('Theri' Soil)

Hot red dunes